Alessandro Michele is a natural provocateur,but the beginning of this Gucci show might have been his most outrageous yet. The models wearing white straitjackets or variations of emerged from backstage and proceeded slow-ly across the runway's moving walkways. As usual, Michele's elaborate show notes offered a clue: “Fashion has a function: to let people walk through fields of possibilities sacralizing every form of diversity, and feeding indis-pensable self-determination skills.” Michele's got a merchandiser's gift for the things that grab the eye. His goal here seemed different. That's a more ambitious project be- cause it's more subtle. But if there's anyone who can convert a generation to a whats-old- is-new-again brand of elegance, it's him.